Joelle Thomson casts a practised eye over the latest
Gimblett Gravels Annual Vintage Selection...

The past three years have been challenging for winemakers in New Zealand, to put it mildly.

First, there was COVID-19 with its looming threat of lockdowns, making the likelihood of harvest look impossible, save for what families and the odd person could pick in the vineyards. Fortunately, harvest did go ahead, albeit with labour shortages.

Then, over the following years there were more labour shortages, and for those on the east coast of the North Island, the most horrific rains in 2022, followed by Cyclone Gabrielle in 2023. Fortunately, these difficult times were preceded by the warm, dry vintages of  2019, 2020 and 2021. Despite all the other challenges, those vintages have proven to be excellent for high quality wines, particularly full-bodied reds.

The proof is in the wine bottle and clear to see in a new-ish release of 12 top reds from Hawke’s Bay’s largest wine sub region, Gimblett Gravels. Every year the Gimblett Gravels Winegrowing Association (GGWA) releases a dozen of its best reds, as selected by highly regarded Australian-based wine consultant and Master of Wine Andrew Caillard.

Caillard is commissioned as an independent wine professional to evaluate and rate the best 12 of a larger bunch of reds submitted by wineries in the Bay.

The Gimblett Gravels Annual Vintage Selection has taken place every year from the 2008 vintage, and the 14th release (2021 vintage) was sent to wine professionals in the second half of 2023, for evaluation. To say it’s an impressive bunch of wines is an understatement. ‘Best ever’ might be more apt.

The interesting aspect of the top 12 is that they have morphed towards an even split of reds made from Syrah and from traditional Bordeaux grape varieties. This highlights the versatility of the Bay for red grape varieties, even if it is more challenging in tricky vintages.

The latest top 12 wines from the 2021 Gimblett Gravels Annual Vintage Selection are featured below. The vast majority are sealed with screwcaps, ensuring they will age evenly over time. Give them a decade; some will come into their best in two decades.

Note: The top 12 are always a preview of finished and bottled wines. So most, but not all, are available for purchase now. Some have yet to be released.

Top 12 Gimblett Gravels 2021 Annual Vintage Selection

Blended reds
• 2021 Craggy Range Sophia RRP $140
• 2021 Elephant Hill Hieronymus RRP $125
• 2021 Elephant Hill Stone Merlot Malbec Cabernet Franc Cabernet Sauvignon RRP $65
• 2021 Mission Estate Jewelstone Antoine RRP $50
• 2021 Saint Clair James Sinclair Malbec RRP $28
• 2021 Squawking Magpie The Nest RRP $59.95

Syrah
• 2021 Craggy Range Le Sol RRP $170
• 2021 Pask Declaration Syrah RRP $50
• 2021 Sacred Hill Deerstalkers Syrah RRP $60
• 2021 Smith & Sheth CRU Omahu Syrah RRP $80
• 2021 Stonecroft Gimblett Gravels Reserve Syrah RRP $60
• 2021 Trinity Hill Homage RRP $150

My top pick
2021 Saint Clair James Sinclair Malbec
Malbec is a bit of a rarity as a stand-alone (rather than blended) red and can really only stand on its own two feet in New Zealand in the best vintages. This is a superb example. It has flavours of dark, ripe black berries with firm, smooth tannins and spicy aromas that make this wine taste succulent. A commanding and incredibly good value bold red from Hawke’s Bay (and, yes, Saint Clair Family Estate is a Marlborough- based winery).

Joelle Thomson is a journalist, wine writer and author.

joellethomson.com