The ascent of Albariño
Albariño has become a rising star of New Zealand’s alternative white scene. But, asks Joelle Thomson, why has it succeeded where so many others have failed?...
It all seems so obvious now, but when Albariño first popped up on the New Zealand wine scene it was met with curiosity rather than immediate excitement.
After all, the last 10 to 15 years have seen other alternative whites such as Arneis, Grüner Veltliner, Marsanne, Roussanne and Viognier come and go, but Albariño has swiftly embedded itself in our consciousness and in our glasses.
Why is Albariño so successful when other quirky newcomers have not been?
The first reason is the name. ‘Albariño’ (‘Al-bah-REEN-yo’) is a little easier to pronounce than some of its competitors. A little more difficult is ‘Rías Baixas’, the most famous home of Albariño, where it makes up about 96% per cent of the vineyards. This region is in Galicia, north-west Spain, and bears more than a passing resemblance to most of New Zealand because its climate is lush and maritime. Not far away, in north-west Portugal, Albariño is known as ‘Alvarinho’ and is a key ingredient in white blends called ‘vinho verde’, as well as single varietal wines.
Which brings me to the second reason. Both of these European wine regions have maritime climates. Rainfall is relatively high, temperatures are relatively warm and tropical and, all of a sudden, it makes sense that Albariño could thrive in New Zealand. And it is doing just that.
This grape may be relatively new here but its success knows no bounds. Excellent examples are trickling out of wineries from Gisborne and Hawke’s Bay, to Marlborough, Nelson and North Canterbury. This begs the questions: When will we see more planted and where will that be?
A third reason for Albariño’s success is its thick skin. This key attribute makes it a natural fit for regions with regular or frequent rain where the threat of mildew is a clear and present danger. Thick-skinned grapes are less likely to suffer from fungal disease and can hang longer on vines, even if rain arrives around harvest time. This means they can ripen for longer, gaining more flavour and, in Albariño’s case, retain its refreshing, naturally high acidity.
“This begs the questions: When will we see more planted and where will that be?”
Spanish winemaking sees some Albariños made by macerating the grapes on their skins prior to fermentation, enabling the wines to gain additional complexity.
Barrel fermentation and ageing can also add complexity and weight, but Albariño doesn’t need the influence of barrels. It has so much going for it already, thanks to its refreshing acidity and characterful flavours. These flavours include green olive, green herbs and green apple, but they rarely seem sharp or astringent. Albariño is always dry, so there’s no confusion over the style.
All up, Albariño is a reliable and surprisingly successful alternative white that’s making its mark from being allowed to shine, unfettered by oak and winemaker influence, and putting it on a fast upward trajectory.
Will it ever become New Zealand’s next big thing? Perhaps in a quirky and semi-mainstream fashion, but I rather hope it doesn’t become too popular. It would be in all our best interests to drink less and drink better, rather than see a lovely newcomer diluted in the quest of volume. To date, New Zealand Albariños all tick the box of high quality. Long may that last.
2020 Nautilus Marlborough Albariño
RRP $28.99
Negociants
This wine is as commanding in taste as it is in appearance. The tall, slender bottle contains an elegant, zesty, citrusy style of wine made by Clive Jones at Nautilus.
2018 Astrolabe Kēkerengū Albariño
RRP $26.99
Astrolabe
Kēkerengū is a windswept coastal area south of Blenheim and home to the southernmost vines in the greater Marlborough region, which translate to crisp fresh flavours here. Zesty green citrus, green apples and olive notes all combine in this wine.
2020 Redmetal Block 5 Albariño
RRP $33.99
Redmetal Vineyards
This is the best vintage of the past 20 years and while winemaker Grant Edmonds hasn’t made Albariño for that long yet, this commanding wine expresses what a great year is all about: intense flavours and Albariño's naturally high acidity, succulent sip.
Joelle Thomson is an Journalist, wine writer and author.
