Cabernet comeback
Some exceptional local releases are shining a new light on Cabernet Sauvignon, says Joelle Thomson…
If the words “Cabernet Sauvignon” have ever struck fear into your heart, you may be of a certain generation and may remember New Zealand reds made in the 1990s.
The early vintages of that decade were cold, grey and wet, and I have to confess that it took me a long time to warm up to Cabernet’s charms because those were my early wine drinking days – and there was a lot to dislike about Kiwi Cabernet back then. But times are changing.
A string of warm, dry vintages in Hawke’s Bay (despite the horrendous rain this year) has led to a bunch of outstanding New Zealand Cabernet Sauvignons, which are trickling onto the market now. I say “trickling” because ironically, there is less Cabernet Sauvignon growing in this country than ever before. It is only the fourth most-planted red grape in New Zealand today, with just 207 hectares nationwide, trailing behind Pinot Noir with 5,807, Merlot with 1,077 and Syrah with 444 hectares.
It’s quite a fall from grace. In 1989, Cabernet Sauvignon was the most planted red grape nationwide with 351 hectares, compared with Pinot Noir’s 138 hectares at the time. That was the first year that hectares of individual grape varieties were measured by the Wine Institute of New Zealand.
At its heady tannic height in 2001, Cabernet had 744 hectares, but the writing was on the wall because that was the year that Merlot surpassed Cabernet by a long margin.
“A bunch of outstanding New Zealand Cabernet Sauvignons are trickling onto the market now.”
New Cabernet Sauvignons from the warm, dry 2020 vintage have all shone at tastings in the second half of this year. A long-awaited Esk Valley tasting hosted by winemaker Gordon Russell at Regional Wines & Spirits in Wellington showed a clear evolution in ripeness levels in newer vintages of reds that contain Cabernet. There are also great new wines from Hancock & Sons, and the 125th anniversary of Church Road’s vineyard was another chance to taste great Cabernets made by winemaker Chris Scott.
So, if New Zealand Cabernet ever felt hard to get a handle on, here are some great reds to ease your troubled heart.
Top Cabernet Sauvignons to try
The following wines appear in the Gimblett Gravels 2020 Annual Vintage Selection. See the full list at gimblettgravels.com
2020 Esk Valley Malbec Cabernet Sauvignon Merlot RRP $24.99
The best value of this year’s Gimblett Gravels Annual Vintage Selection wines release. A stunning complex blend of Malbec, Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot.
2020 Hancock & Sons Cabernet Franc Cabernet Sauvignon RRP $35.99
Fantastic ripe, dark fruit blend of the two great Cabernets with purple colour and density. So impressive.
2020 Trinity Hills The Gimblett RRP $40
Structure and youth with smooth plummy aromas and flavours leading into a tightly structured, dark fruited wine with firm backbone and classic Cabernet Sauvignon aromas. Merlot adds the flesh while Malbec brings depth of colour and spicy flavour support.
2020 Mission Jewelstone Antoine RRP $50
An impressive full-bodied blend of 65% Cabernet Sauvignon, 20% Cabernet Franc and 15% Merlot, made by Paul Mooney, long-term winemaker at Mission Estate. Beautiful balance.
2020 Elephant Hill Stone Merlot Cabernet Sauvignon Cabernet Franc RRP $59
Another youthfully powerful red blend containing Cabernet Sauvignon. To be released 2023.
2020 Church Road 1 Cabernet Sauvignon RRP $120
Dark fruit flavours, staunch black grippy tannins and a long powerful finish. Impressive and youthful. Needs time, but impresses now.
2020 Elephant Hill Hieronymus RRP $120
Big, bold and dark – and yet to be released in 2023. A keeper.
2020 Trinity Hill Prison Block Cabernet Sauvignon RRP $120
A bold and powerful wine with superb structure; one of the best New Zealand Cabernet Sauvignons I have ever tasted. A real keeper for at least 10 years but impressive now too.
Joelle Thomson is a journalist, wine writer and author.
