Best of the Bay’s bunch
Joelle Thomson explores the diversity of New Zealand’s second-biggest wine region...
Where is the most diverse region in Aotearoa New Zealand? Three contenders spring to mind: Hawke’s Bay, Nelson, and Central Otago. The latter may prove controversial given it has approximately 80% of its vineyard area devoted to Pinot Noir. The flip side is that Central has an incredibly diverse range of vineyard aspects (which way it faces the sun or not), microclimates, potential elevations, and weather.
At the opposite end of the spectrum, Nelson also boasts massive diversity because it has long been a hotbed of experimentation for aromatic white grape varieties and quirky reds, such as those the Seifried family has made in homage to their Austrian heritage.
Then we get to Hawke’s Bay. This region is the second-biggest on the New Zealand wine scene and not only spans a wide range of climates but arguably has the broadest range of grape varieties. These include nearly all the usual suspects: Cabernets Franc and Sauvignon, Chardonnay, Gewürztraminer, Merlot, Riesling and Syrah. The notable exception is Pinot Noir, which few people produce in the Bay.
“Hawke’s Bay is a long way behind Marlborough in terms of vineyard area planted, but its wide range of grape varieties and wine styles give it a diversity that, in my view, no other region in this country can hold a torch to. ”
Its winemakers also take the road less travelled and make Albariño, Cabernet Franc, Chenin Blanc, Malbec, Montepulciano and Tempranillo, among others.
All of this diversity and more was on display at Harvest Hawke’s Bay in late 2024. This is no ordinary wine festival. For starters, it’s not open to any old winery to pop along to.
Festival director Liz Pollock has forged a reputation for events outside the box, which showed in her hand-picked wineries at the 2024 Harvest event, where wines were served alongside dishes from the crème de la crème of restaurants in Hastings and Napier.
Hawke’s Bay is a long way behind Marlborough in terms of vineyard area planted, but its wide range of grape varieties and wine styles give it a diversity that, in my view, no other region in this country can hold a torch to.
Hawke’s Bay has diversity in spades, which shows in its groundbreaking success as a Great Wine Capital of the world, in its superlative Chardonnays and in its full-bodied reds.
Wines to seek out…
2019 Askerne Archer Chardonnay
RRP $39.90 - Co Pilot
Smooth, toasty and full-bodied Chardonnay with creamy notes and a freshness adding balance.
2021 Askerne Dr John Cabernet Sauvignon Malbec Cabernet Franc
RRP $59.90 - Co Pilot
An outstanding red modelled on left bank Bordeaux (aka Cabernet Sauvignon-led) reds with its powerful structure and complex layers of dark berries, black olives and dried herbs; 67% Cabernet Sauvignon, 27% Malbec and 6% Cabernet Franc.
2023 Chateau Garage Amphora Cabernet Sauvignon
RRP $120 - Chateau Garage
Big, bold and elegant at the same time. Fermented in a 500 litre Hungarian amphora with daily hand plunging and five months maturation in oak.
2021 Čuvar Rivermere Gimblett Gravels Chardonnay
RRP $44 - Fistonich Family Vineyards
The name Hugh Crichton is synonymous with great Chardonnays from Hawke’s Bay so it’s no surprise that he made this multi- trophy-winning wine. Full-bodied, smooth and layered with ripe citrus, rounded stone fruit and creamy notes.
2023 Maison Noire Cabernet Franc
RRP $29 - Maison Noire
Dark, plummy and delicious; the essence of Cabernet Franc. Drinks well now and will evolve for the next three to four years.
2023 Redmetal Albariño Sur Lie
RRP $32 - Red + White Cellar
‘Sur Lie’ means ‘on lees’, which builds texture and creamy smooth flavours into this tangy, zesty Albariño from Bridge Pa in Hawke’s Bay.
2023 Smith & Sheth Albariño
RRP $32.99 - Negociants
Textural Albariño with tangy flavour notes and impressive viscosity, which brings weight to the delicious framework of bright acidity in this wine.
Joelle Thomson is a journalist, wine writer and author.
