A brave new world
Dominic Roskrow reflects on the year that was and brings good cheer for the year ahead (thank goodness for that…)
I was watching a festive issue of MasterChef: The Professionals recently (don’t ask), recorded last Christmas. The four contestants were tasked with creating a dish to say farewell to the misery of 2020, and one to cheerfully welcome in 2021.
I didn’t know whether to laugh or cry, because here we are, having wasted an entire year. All the optimism of that MasterChef programme has seeped away and the world is a confusing mix of restrictions, lockdowns, COVID passports and jab campaigns. It’s a mess and it isn’t going away any time soon. People are confused, frustrated, and even angry.
Here in the United Kingdom, an unholy row has broken out over the decision of a local council to cancel an outdoor service to commemorate Remembrance Sunday while allowing hundreds of rock fans to pack into a smallish student rock venue.
But my intention isn’t to pour cask strength whisky on an already painful open wound. The glass might be half empty, but if we try hard enough we can see that it is half full too. And despite all the setbacks of the last 12 months, we’re not in the same place we were at Christmas 2020, for a number of reasons.
“Hospitality has bounced back in the United Kingdom and is trading at pre-pandemic levels.”
Firstly, last year left the hospitality sector reeling. Constant lockdowns, the need to invest in a whole new way of operating, and staff shortages as bar staff looked for employment elsewhere, threatened to punch a massive hole in the profits of many outlets.
Now, the new operating methods are in place and when allowed to, pubs and bars are as advanced as any sector when it comes to welcoming customers back. Scant consolation in those cities where lockdown still applies, I know, but a year ago the hospitality sector was in dire straits. Today, hospitality has bounced back in the United Kingdom and is trading at pre-pandemic levels.
The more positive situation was best summed up by the return of visitors to The Whisky Show in London. Last year it was held virtually, and tasting whisky virtually is, to quote rock writer Lester Bangs, like dancing to architecture. This year, with strictly limited numbers and a set of regulations in place, it felt like a carnival. The reduced numbers made it a comfortable and relaxed experience and the atmosphere was akin to a fancy dress party, with people in the mindset to enjoy themselves from the outset.
Unlike 2021, when plans have been put on hold, expect a flurry of exciting new spirits in 2022. The smaller producers, struggling to get bottles, packaging or labels in 2021, are playing catch up. I know of at least three companies who should have launched whiskies for Christmas but are now set to do so from February 2022. The drinks industry is like a Formula One race: all the cars are on the grid, revving their engines – and the lights are just about to turn green.
In Europe, canny entrepreneurs are taking advantage of slashed rents and leases in city centres where COVID has wreaked havoc, and are looking to bring drinks lovers new and exciting bars and retail outlets. The Japanese-style bar in apartment blocks is just one concept that may well be rolled out in cities across the world.
COVID won’t go away, but it’s not all doom and gloom. We’re learning to live with it. And it may well be taking us on an inspired journey towards a brave world. We can but hope.
Dominic Roskrow is a UK-based world spirits expert and editor of Stills Crazy
