A bittersweet choice
Amid the growing sober-curious movement, non-alcoholic aperitivi might just be the next big thing, says Sarah Miller...
Like many women my age, I’ve experimented with sobriety. Specifically for nine months at a time, 13 and 16 years ago, and mostly under duress! Back then, alcohol-free options were largely limited to lime and soda, Becks Blue, or a Virgin Mary.
Then, in 2015, Seedlip took the drinks industry by storm. Described as the world’s first distilled non-alcoholic spirit, Seedlip initially met a mixed reception (largely due to its high price tag) but proved to be a pioneer of the no/low movement, outselling every other spirit – boozy or otherwise – in Selfridges in January 2016.
Fast-forward ten years and not only has the no/low category exploded, but moderation has also gone mainstream. And it’s not just about Dry January or Sober October anymore. According to The Portman Group’s latest survey with YouGov, over a third of UK drinkers now consume low- and no-alcohol alternatives semi-regularly, while a staggering 39% of 18-24 year olds don’t drink alcohol at all.
But while the media discuss the merits of “zebra striping” (alternating alcoholic drinks with non- alcoholic) and promote the products that replicate booze and the celebrities behind them – from Lewis Hamilton’s non-alc agave spirit Almave to Kylie Minogue’s alcohol- free wines – something far more interesting is underway.
“Botivo is a multi-award-winning non-alcoholic aperitivo made with British apple cider vinegar, gentian, wormwood, orange zest and wildflower honey.”
Because the most exciting products are arguably the ones that aren’t trying to mimic alcohol at all.
Working outside of recognised spirit styles such as gin and rum may make these non-alc products harder to define and popularise, but this perceived weakness is also their strength. Unencumbered by expectation, these brands are creating a new category of ‘grown-up’ drinks that are defined not by what they lack (alcohol) but by what they possess. And, for now, it’s the aperitif- style drinks that are achieving this best, by embracing botanical diversity to create complex bittersweet beverages with body and weight.
Launched in 2021, Botivo is a multi- award-winning non-alcoholic aperitivo made with British apple cider vinegar, gentian, wormwood, orange zest and wildflower honey that has won over sommeliers and top chefs alike. Beyond its fantastic flavour and instantly recognisable packaging, Botivo identifies not as a moderation brand but as a pleasure brand, shying away from Dry January associations and instead choosing to straddle the non-alcoholic and alcoholic spheres with a plethora of serves to suit every palate and drinker, sober or otherwise.
Vault Aperitivo similarly defines itself as a brand “in the business of making delicious things to drink”. Having already released a range of gin, vodka and vermouth, Vault is soon to launch a non-alc aperitivo created by macerating apple cider vinegar with botanicals including fig, rhubarb, black pepper, rosemary and sage. And while founder Dan Joines doesn’t intend to actively suggest a serve with alcohol, Vault’s pilot testers have already enjoyed mixing it into lower ABV Negronis and Manhattans, as well as sipping it neat over ice, or with soda.
What is so exciting about these handcrafted products that elude easy definition is the creativity at the heart of them, and that shows no signs of abating.
Botivo has already released two limited-edition collaborations, including a barrel-aged bottling with Berry Bros. & Rudd, but if it’s wood-aged spirits you’re interested in then keep an eye on Seedlip founder Ben Branson. His latest enterprise, Sylva, launched in late 2024 and uses innovative techniques including ‘sonic maturation’ to extract flavour, colour and character from a wealth of woods to create a <0.5% ABV dark sipping spirit.
It’s early days, but the tasting notes for Sylva’s first Padauk edition (named after the red-orange African hardwood) of “freshly baked chocolate cake, buttered whole grain toast, and green walnuts” makes tantalising reading, and the beautiful bottle wouldn’t look out of place on the backbar of any top hotel either.
With a limitless freedom to colour outside the lines, and an impressive commitment to innovation over imitation, it is these craft producers who are making the ever growing no- and low-alcohol category arguably one of the most exciting to watch.
Sarah Miller is a UK-based spirits writer, judge and consultant.
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